On to the Camino Sanabrés

Turned westwards after Montemarta, finally leaving the Via de la Plata (which carries on due north to Astorga, where it joins the Camino Francés).  So I’ve finally left the N630 behind me – we’ve been travelling in parallel lines since Camas, a couple of miles from the Guadalquivir and our paths have crossed many times.  Less sad to be leaving the A66 motorway, which I haven’t set foot on, but have often seen in the distance, and heard far more often: even in quite wild and apparently empty places you could suddenly hear a distant roar from the lorries pounding north and south along it – anyway, it’s the closest I’m ever likely to get to Route 66.

Got to Tabara, my base for the night, in time to see the exhibition at the Eglesia de la Asunción, whose handsome 11^th century tower had been visible for an hour or so before.  It was the site of a visigothic monastery and had a famous scriptorium.

tower at visigothic monastery of Tabara

On Saturday morning set out in the dark (after breakfast in the Casa Rural, which I hadn’t expected to be open).  The guide says I should have been zig-zagging along the N631, but I thought the old pilgrim route would have been straight so decided to risk it by following the road, and was soon rewarded with a camino de tierra that went mostly parallel with the main road through a delightful forest park.  On one or two of the helpful information boards I was surprised to see evidence of rivalry between Castille and Leon – somebody had crossed out the Castille quarterings on the junta of Castille & Leon’s coat of arms,, and the bit saying Junta de “Castille y” Leon.  Also saw lots of wind-turbines on the horizon to the north, but not the sort that Don Quixote took a tilt at.

Arrived at Mombuey in time for a late menu del dia in a bar on the main road.  There was a pellegrina from Verona there, but by the time I got to the albergue it was empty, so she must have headed on to the next village.  Not sure I blame her as the gloomy barn-like albergue was very cold indeed - even with all my clothes on all night and three blankets I was shivvering when I woke up.  On the plus side, the water for the shower was deliciously hot.

There was an unusual rectangular bell tower, slightly like a minaret in some ways, above the 13^th century local church – some people apparently think it might have been built by the Templars.

Mombuey church tower