A long hot day

Set off with the smallest possible slither of waning moon and made good progress across the hills slowly down to Fuente de Cantos, where Zurbaran was born.  I was pleased to see a hoopoe shortly after dawn  - when I worked in the Midi they were quite a common (and always delightful) sight, but I haven’t seen one for years, and wasn’t expecting to so late in the year.  Most of the way to Fuente was along an old via pecuaria, or drove road, but judging by the lack of droppings it hasn’t been used much recently – it would have been nice to see a herd or flock in transhumance.

Fuente de Cantos

Monesterio is over 2400’ above sea level, and the agricultural use of the land changed as the height dropped – the last (free range) pigs were only a mile from the town, then it turned into quite lush meadows with cows, then ploughed land which had presumably had corn harvested earlier, and as I got closer to Zafra it was back to vines and olive groves again.

Zafra is a delightful town, full of beautiful buildings and with a real bustle, often described as a Seville in miniature.  There was a special 2 nights for the price of one offer at the local parador.  €57 per night in a 4* mediaeval castle-cum-palace formerly owned by the Duques de Feria seemed much too good an opportunity to miss (not to mention having a proper bath after only showers since Seville).  It also means tomorrow I’ll be able to walk to Almendralejo without my rucksack, and take the bus back to my luxurious room in Zafra.  Which will be a relief, as today was too long, too knackering and too hot (it was still 23C when I got to Zafra just before dusk, so I think must have been over 26 at midday for the first time since I started – it certainly felt it).  And my first blister has put in an ominous appearance on the side of my left heel.