Into the hills

Tuesday, 2 November

Set off from a sleeping hotel before dawn (the hotel only starts serving breakfast at 9am) to get as much ground underfoot before the heat becomes too great.

Relatively easy day.  Left Castillblanco at sunrise and the first 16km were on a quiet country road, with a few cars and no other pedestrians.  The kilometre markers flashed by every 10 minutes, through gently rising countryside, with oaks (some with their bark stripped for cork) and the occasional pig looking for acorns.  Much more monochrome landscape than the plain, with its lush bougainvillea, oleanders, largestrenia and sweet smelling jasmine.  By 11am I was ready for my first water break at the entrance to the Parque Natural of el Berrocal.

The next 13 km were most enjoyable, even though the heat was rising steadily.  A park with plenty of shade, and lots of tree planting, first through more oaks, then the occasional eucalyptus and finally 1000s of young pines – it was difficult to say what sort, but I’d guess pin parasol.  Thanks to the miracle of a merino top, I hadn’t been cold at the beginning and wasn’t that bothered by the heat even when the sun was at the zenith – compared with dripping with sweat in a normal t-shirt yesterday.  Heat control was also helped by putting my handkerchief behind my sombrero, like a foreign legionnaire, so my neck didn’t get burnt.  As the camino is effectively due north throughout, the back of the neck is the most vulnerable place.

Steadily rising countryside through the park ended with a spectacular view at the Miradores del Cerro del Calvario, at over 1800’, where I finished the last of my water, looking across to Extremadura, and straight down on Almaden de la Plata (and lunch).  Arrived at Almaden (Arabic for “the mines”, after the still working pre-Roman marble quarries, famous for its blue marble) at about 3pm, in time for a decent bowl of soup and a siesta.  Could possibly have made it on the next 8-10 miles to El Real de la Jara, but would probably only have arrived after dark not sure of where to stay, and this looks a pleasant spot, with a comfortable room at the Casa Concha so, j’y suis, j’y reste.  The storks' nests on the church, the clock tower and another tower suggest they liked the place too.

Almaden de la Plata

And had a pleasant amble round the town, checking out my exit for the morning, then having supper while the rest of the people in the bar watched Valencia beat Glasgow Rangers at football.